Q&A with French Sommelier Gilles Le Léannec

His expert food and French wine pairings for your Holiday menus.

Last week, I had the pleasure of meeting with Gilles Le Léannec, a passionate wine sommelier with an impressive 30 years of experience at Relais & Châteaux (luxury hotels & fine-dining restaurants) and Michelin-starred hotels throughout France. Gilles honed his skills in Bordeaux Châteaux before sharing his expertise with the people of Lorient, at “La Câve du Yachtman”. This esteemed establishment, featuring both a delightful restaurant and a well-curated wine cellar, is a treasured gem in our hometown, offering an impressive selection of sought-after wine bottles and more.

As we approach the holiday season - a time for gathering with loved ones around the table - I couldn't resist asking Gilles for his wine pairing suggestions to help elevate our festive meals. He generously shared a wealth of knowledge, offering insights that felt both practical and inspiring. His enthusiasm was infectious, reminding me of the joy that comes from sharing a good bottle of wine with family and friends.

Santé! (cheers in French)

Q: Bonjour Gilles, can you introduce yourself and how you became the knowledgeable sommelier that you are today? 

A: I graduated in hospitality as part of the first class of the Dinard Hotel School (Northern Brittany) in 1973. From the moment I got my driver’s license I dove into the industry, starting out at Château de Locguénolé (Southern Brittany), which had two Michelin stars. My journey then led me through remarkable establishments, from Le Castel Marie-Louise in La Baule, to Relais Gourmands in Lyon, and even to a palatial hotel in Val-d’Isère (French Alps).

In 1982, I arrived in Bordeaux to oversee the wine program at a prestigious restaurant. The owner was ambitious, aiming for a Michelin star and was willing to invest in quality. He trusted me, a 23-year-old, to handle the wine purchasing, which pushed me to grow quickly in this world. Back then, Bordeaux’s châteaux were open to serious buyers, and I was lucky to learn directly in the cellars from the masters of the craft, who shared their knowledge with passion and simplicity. For nearly seven years, my wife and I would visit the châteaux every week to taste and learn. Sometimes, I’d return alone during the week to ask more questions and deepen my knowledge. These kinds of visits have become rare today, as many wineries are now more closed-off.

Hospitality and wine have always been my passions. In 1988, I returned to Lorient and opened my own restaurant—Le Yachtman—which I ran for 18 years before selling it to my friend, Eddy. After that, I opened a wine shop, though I soon realized the space was too small for my ambitions and passion. So, I shifted paths, becoming a wine merchant. Now, as I near retirement, Eddy has asked me to come back to Le Yachtman to manage the wine and spirit cellar. Of course, I said yes.

Q: Let’s follow up with a simple question: is the price of a wine bottle always indicative of its quality? Meaning, you pay for what you get?

A: Yes, but that doesn’t mean you need to spend a fortune. In our cellar, you can find a very good bottle in the 15 to 20 euro range, and these bottles are about 30 to 40 US dollars. In this price range, you can truly treat yourself, whether in white, red, or rosé wines.

When it comes to Champagne, it’s a bit different. For exports, you mainly see big-name brands rather than small-scale producers, which affects the pricing. Here, for example, we have prestigious and iconic names like Pol Roger, Bollinger, Charles Heidsieck, Billecart-Salmon, and of course, Ruinart. These are well-known and sought-after brands, but it’s challenging to find a bottle below 45 euros.

However, we also work with outstanding independent winemakers, and their “grower Champagnes” offer a real quality alternative. For instance, we have bottles starting at 26 euros. You might think that price alone would make a huge difference in taste, but the pleasure you get from a quality grower Champagne can be just as enjoyable as a major brand at a much higher price.

That said, if you're looking for a good Champagne, my advice is to go for a bottle with at least three and a half years of aging. For me, that’s an ideal duration, offering an excellent Champagne with well-developed aromas and great depth.

Of course, the brand’s reputation and prestige influence perception, but the actual quality in taste often comes down to the winemaker’s skill, the unique terroir, and the dedicated work that goes into creating such a distinct product.

Q: Can you share wine pairing suggestions for our Holiday festivities? First off, how would you start the evening off, to welcome guests?

A: For the aperitif, there’s nothing quite like a crisp Brut Champagne to kick off the evening with a celebratory sparkle. If you’re looking for alternatives, the Crémants from Burgundy, Alsace, or the Loire are fantastic choices too—each bringing its own character to the table. And of course, a refreshing Sancerre blanc or a vibrant Quincy can make for a lovely start.

Q: What wines work best with seafood appetizers?

A: For oysters, I recommend a Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine sur Lie. The mineral notes perfectly complement the briny freshness of the oysters. Alternatively, a dry Bordeaux blanc or a crisp Bourgogne Aligoté can elevate the experience, while a classic Chablis always brings a certain elegance to the table.

As we indulge in smoked salmon, I love to pour a glass of Pouilly Fumé. Its smoky undertones beautifully mirror the dish, and a Pessac Léognan blanc or a refined Riesling Grand Cru also pairs beautifully, adding depth to the meal.

For scallops, I often reach for a rich Pouilly-Fuissé or a creamy Meursault. If you’re in the mood for something a bit more aromatic, a Condrieu is perfect.

Q: And for other starters?

A: For a hearty terrine or pâté, I love to serve it alongside a robust Bourgueil or a fruit-forward Moulin à Vent. A Crozes-Hermitage Rouge also adds a lovely touch, providing just the right balance.

And for the indulgent foie gras, I believe a young Sauternes is a classic pairing that simply cannot be beaten. The sweetness complements the richness of the foie gras beautifully. I also enjoy serving it with a Jurançon Moelleux or a fragrant Pinot Gris d’Alsace, both of which enhance the experience.

Q: What bottles do you recommend for the typical Holiday mains?

A: As we transition to the main course of turkey with stuffing, a Mercurey Rouge adds a touch of warmth to the dish. A Chinon or a bold Châteauneuf-du-Pape also works wonders, bringing out the flavors of the meat.

When it comes to roast pork, I love to uncork a bottle of Graves rouge, which offers a wonderful balance of fruit and earthiness. Alternatively, a Côtes du Rhône or a rich Cahors “Malbec” can enhance the flavors beautifully.

For a classic Boeuf Bourguignon, nothing pairs better than a Santenay or a glass of Sancerre rouge. An Alsace Pinot Noir can also bring a unique twist to this comforting dish.

Q: And now onto the cheese course – a big deal in France. Do you have some general recommendations for pairing wines and cheeses?

A: As we savor a cheese platter, I enjoy introducing a range of wines to match. For hard cheeses, a white wine from Jura or Savoie works wonders. If we're having cow's milk cheeses like Camembert, a refreshing cider brut pairs perfectly, while a rich Brie calls for a lively Beaujolais Village. For Coulommiers, I love serving either Bourgogne rouge, Anjou, or Bouzy to complement its creamy texture.

For goat cheeses, I find that white wines such as Menetou-Salon, Sancerre, or Valençay enhance their flavors beautifully. And for blue cheeses like Roquefort or Bleu de Bresse, I love to indulge in a rich Banyuls or a vintage Porto to round out the experience.

Q: And for dessert?

A: Finally, as we wrap up the meal with desserts, a Bûche de Noël au chocolat is best enjoyed with a sweet Coteaux de l’Aubance vieux or a young Maury. A luscious Rivesaltes is also a delightful companion.

For a seasonal favorite like pumpkin pie, I recommend a Coteaux du Layon, a Gewurztraminer moelleux, or a fragrant Monbazillac.

And for fruity desserts, a Maury vintage blanc or a refreshing Muscadet de Frontignan brings the meal to a delightful close.

Q: Finally, can you share with us a few under-the-radar wines that deserve more praise outside of France?

A: The wines of Cahors offer excellent quality at very reasonable prices and have improved significantly over time. In this region, Malbec is particularly renowned.

And secondly, I’d say the Côtes du Rhône whites. The white wines of the Côtes du Rhône are truly exceptional, and we sell a lot of them. Abroad, many people primarily associate the Rhône with red wines. However, the whites deserve your attention. Take, for example, a Vacqueyras: it’s excellent!

And let’s not forget the great Hermitages in white, which are also remarkable. Additionally, even the wines from the Lubéron, which is part of the Côtes du Rhône appellation, are worth exploring. They offer a beautiful diversity and undeniable quality.

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I hope you enjoyed this Q&A with Gilles, and that it inspired you for your food and wine pairings for the Holiday season. You can download the printable chart below with all the wines mentioned above, classified by courses.

Please leave a comment to let me know how you enjoy these suggestions, or if you have any favorite wines to suggest to me and other readers!

A big thank you to Gilles and Eddy for opening their doors to the Cave du Yachtman and answering all my questions. Make sure to visit their establishment and book a table at the restaurant if you visit Lorient.

Printable: Holiday Food & Wine Pairings

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