A Weekend in Lille, for the start of the Tour de France

What we saw, what we ate — and all the joy in between.

What. A. Weekend.

Marc (my very patient husband) and I just got back from a long weekend in Lille, where we dove headfirst into the excitement of the Grand Départ — the big, joyful kickoff of the Tour de France. Between exploring cobblestone alleys and cheering on cyclists in colorful Lycra, it was a whirlwind of adrenaline, emotion, and yes — spectacular food.

This wasn’t just any stage of the Tour. This was the Grand Départ. The starting line of the world’s most famous bike race, hosted this year in Lille. It’s the vibrant capital of French Flanders, where cycling is basically a religion - so you can imagine the festive chaos. The city was buzzing. Every café’s terrace was packed, and many events were planned around the city, including the Tour’s village, the team presentations on the Grand’Place (city square) on the Thursday, and the race kick off on the Saturday.

We’d talked about seeing a Grand Départ in person for years, and since Marc had never been to Lille, it felt like the perfect excuse to plan a trip. And when I say “planned,” I mean planned. We booked our B&B nearly a year in advance, knowing full well the moment the Tour route dropped, hotel prices would launch into orbit. (They did.) I spent months looking forward to it — not just for the race, but for the chance to show Marc this under-the-radar gem of a city.

My own love affair with the Tour began back when I lived in Canada. I still remember being in our condo’s gym in downtown Toronto, sweating it out on an elliptical in July, watching the tour on TV with sweeping shots of the French countryside. Over my years in Canada, it became a sort of ritual — a little escape hatch back to France in the middle of my expat summers. Eventually, I got hooked on the sport itself too. The strategy, the drama, the unsung teamwork — not to mention the fans lined up on winding mountain roads with cowbells and homemade signs - it’s always so fun to watch.

What I love most about the Tour is that it still feels... human. It’s one of the few major sporting events that’s truly free — anyone can show up. It brings together kids, grandparents, die-hard fans, first-timers — all standing roadside shoulder to shoulder just to cheer.

And in Lille? We found all that joy — plus incredible food and a vibe I still haven’t quite shaken off. I already liked Lille, but now I love Lille. We were there for just three days, but it was more than enough to soak it in while enjoying the Tour de France fun. It’s a decent-sized city, but compact in all the right ways. Everything is a short walk — the Grand’Place, the train station, Old Town, boutique shops, bars, even a little city zoo tucked inside a leafy park. It’s a city that somehow stays off the radar for many tourists — and that’s a shame, because Lille in the summer is a dream.

So, to give you a little taste — and maybe nudge you into booking a trip — here are some highlights from our stay.

La Grand’ Place: Lille’s main square.