A delicious escape in Lisbon

Sardines, pastéis and beyond: here are the eating highlights of our stay in Portugal’s capital city.

We’re freshly back from a five-day getaway in Lisbon, Portugal, and we were absolutely smitten! After enduring a rainy winter in Brittany, we craved sunshine and a dose of culture - Lisbon delivered both in spades. Winding, hilly streets, the rhythmic clicking of old yellow trams, buildings adorned with colorful azulejos, and the shimmering Tagus River at our feet—the city offers a perfect blend of vintage charm, coastal allure and the lively energy of a European capital.

Beyond its beauty, we’d heard Lisbon’s food scene was buzzing, so we couldn’t wait to experience it for ourselves. It’s no surprise that Marc and I are both foodies. Spoiler: it did not disappoint. So, stepping away from French cuisine for a moment, I’ve rounded up for you our top culinary highlights from this trip. Hope you enjoy them as much as we did!

Before I share my list, here are a few things to know about dining in Lisbon:

• First, let’s talk about “couvert”. In most Lisbon restaurants, for around 3 or 4 euros, you’ll get a little starter spread—usually a basket of bread, olives, and sometimes a delicious sardine or crab pâté. I think this is a nice treat to share while you glance the menu to get things started.

• Now, if you’re used to struggling through a menu with Google Translate, good news: most Lisbon restaurants have English menus, and the servers speak great English. (Definitely not a Paris situation!) That said, throwing in a cheerful "Olá" when you walk in and a polite "Obrigado" (or Obrigada if you’re a woman) when you are served your food is always appreciated.

• Lisbon is a tourist hotspot, and even in the so-called low season (October to March), reservations are a must if you actually want to eat at your chosen spot.

• Now, about the prices: Lisbon restaurants were pricier than we expected. Inflation is hitting hard, and while it stings a little to pay more, most of the places we visited served fresh, homemade meals—and honestly, we were happy to support them.

• But here’s the sad part: many locals can no longer afford to dine out. In most places we ate, we were surrounded by fellow tourists, with very few locals in sight. It’s a bittersweet reality—Lisbon’s food scene is thriving, but not necessarily for the people who call the city home.

What and where we ate in Lisbon

Frade Dos Mares

On our first night in Lisbon, we dined at Frade dos Mares, a fantastic spot for a slightly fancy date night. The restaurant specializes in fresh fish and seafood, featuring a lineup of Portuguese classics like cod, octopus, crab, and prawns. I started with a wonderfully rich and flavorful Fish Soup—creamy, brimming with large chunks of fish and plump shrimp. For my main course, I had an outstanding Octopus Salad with roasted red peppers. Now, let me be clear—I’m usually not a fan of chewy octopus, but this one was unbelievably tender, perfectly seasoned, and coated in a garlicky, slightly spicy vinaigrette with just the right amount of olive oil. Marc went for the Seared Cod Loin, beautifully cooked and served atop a bed of golden, roasted potatoes. Every bite was perfection. Beyond the food, we loved the warm and lively atmosphere. Overall, an excellent meal and a great start to our time in Lisbon!

Frade Dos Mares
Av. D. Carlos I, nº 55 A, 1200-647, Lisboa
Instagram: @fradedosmares

Fish Soup, Octopus Salad and Cod Loin at Frade Dos Mares.